Here’s what the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)[1] says about preparing containers and water for storing:
• Containers for water should be rinsed with a diluted bleach
solution (one part bleach to ten parts water) before use. Previously
used bottles or other containers may be contaminated with microbes or
chemicals. Do not rely on untested devices for decontaminating water.
• If your water is treated commercially by a water utility, you do not need to treat water before storing it.
Additional treatments of treated public water will not increase storage life. [emphasis added]
• If you have a well or public water that has not been treated,
follow the treatment instructions provided by your public health service
or water provider.
• If you suspect that your well may be contaminated, contact your
local or state health department or agriculture extension agent for
specific advice.
• Seal your water containers tightly, label them and store them in a
cool, dark place. It is important to change stored water every six
months.
If you wish to treat our water prior to storing it, I recommend the
chlorox.com site for the latest information on disinfecting water with
chlorine bleach. Any “clorox” type bleach product will work, as long as
it only contains 5.25% or 6% sodium hypochlorite as its active
ingredient and does not contain brighteners or scents. Per the Clorox
site use the following amounts of bleach to disinfect water: 4 drops per
quart, 16 drops per gallon, 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons; shake or stir the
water and let sit for 30 minutes before using. If, after 30 minutes,
you cannot smell chlorine, retreat and wait 30 minutes. On my used
barrels from the local bottling plant, I treat my stored water with a
saturated iodine crystal solution, just for insurance. Again, if you
have confidence in the cleanliness of your local tap water, using it
as-is is okay also.
Some may advocate the use of potable water-compatible hoses to fill
large barrels. However, I just use my garden hose, running the water for
several minutes to ensure I am getting fresh water direct from the
water main in front of my house. Again, YMMV; use what you’re
comfortable with.
Except for those containers which I note that I have no experience
with, I have listed water storage containers in order reflecting my
personal preference and experience. Currently, I have over 450 gallons
of water stored, with approximately 330 gallons in the water storage
containers discussed in this FAQ.
With one exception, none of these
containers have leaked. Your personal circumstance and preferences
(cost, need for robustness, convenience, storage space, amount of water
to store, etc.) will determine what’s best for you. This FAQ is designed
to help you determine what to containers to store the amount of water
you feel you need. All prices shown represent the North Alabama area
during 2002.
Freezing water containers: Most of the containers listed here are
freezable, with certain limitations. Sufficient headroom must be left in
order to prevent splitting or bursting the container since water
expands when it freezes into ice. Headroom is nothing more than air left
at the top of the container. The only exception to the headroom rule
are store bought 12 and 20 oz. water bottles that can be frozen as they
come from the store; all larger containers need to have headroom to
ensure the container will survive the freezing and water expansion
process. Usually ¼ of the container’s volume is sufficient headroom.
Cleaning previously used containers: First make sure you know what
has been previously stored in your used containers. This usually means
that you bought the container new with its original contents (e.g. pop
bottles) or you have confidence of its previous use from a commercial
source (e.g. a Coke Cola or Pepsi bottler). Under no circumstances would
I use containers that I was not sure what it might have been used for
in the past. For example, I do not recommend that people collect used
pop bottles from recycling centers or bins for use as potable water
containers.
To clean small used containers, I rinse out several times, allow the
container to soak filled with hot water a couple of times, and then fill
with tap water and call it good. For larger containers like barrels, I
will use a solution of Clorox and water (1/8 cup per gallon of water)
and rinse several times afterwards. I do not recommend that you use any
type of detergent or other cleaning solutions to clean your containers.
If the containers are really dirty, grungy or contain visible signs of
algae, I would not use them, unless you can ensure you can fully clean
the container (i.e. can physically remove the dirt, not just rinse) or
use them for non-potable water uses.
To clean new containers, I usually just rinse them out a few times,
fill them with city tap water and call it good to go. I have tested my
city water (Madison, AL) several times for chlorine and it always has a
very high level of free chlorine. YMMV, especially if you are using well
water. All of my smaller containers are filled from the water tap; the
larger containers are filled with a standard garden hose, well flushed
to ensure clean, fresh water is stored. For the ultimate in cleanliness,
a water potable hose could be used; these are available from RV
suppliers. I personally don’t feel its necessary, but feel free to use
what you think is best.
Attributes assessed for this FAQ: Cost, robustness, size, convenience, and FDA approved materials along with other comments as
necessary.
Cost assessment is important to people new to preparedness; they
almost always looking to save money when they are starting down the
preparedness road. Cost is also important in order to maximize dollars
for water stored.
There is another dimension to cost that most people might not think
about. Suppose there’s a crisis in your area and you’ve prepared but
your friends, neighbors and relatives haven’t. A neighbor comes to the
door asking for water knowing you have several hundred gallons stored;
will the decision to share easier knowing that you can give him several
gallons in containers that cost you nothing vs. the possibility of
losing a $20 USGI water can? Exactly. There are a number of good reasons
to share with others during times of crisis and the possibility of
losing expensive water containers shouldn’t be an impediment to so
doing.
Robustness is important for 2 reasons: mobility and longevity. People
need to know which containers they can take with them if they are
forced to evacuate, having confidence the containers and therefore their
water will survive travel; longevity is important so containers don’t
have to be replaced once they are bought. Furthermore, people usually
store their water with their stored food; it’s important to know that
your water containers are not going to leak and destroy your food
supply.
Size is important to people with very little storage area available
for preparedness items because they live in an apartment or small house.
Size also allows everyone to maximize their storage capability. Size is
important if you have to carry your water container any distance to
fill or use.
Convenience is important to those who may be aged or are not strong
enough to move heavy weights or may have children that need to use the
water. Water weighs 8.3 lb/gallon and cannot be condensed or dehydrated
(despite what you read on the Internet!). Having comfortable handles
makes it easier moving and using water containers.
All weights shown
below are for the water only; container weights are usually pretty
negligible compared to the weight of the water; exceptions are large
barrels and other very large water containers. Even an empty 55-gallon
barrel is pretty easy for even a child to move.
Very large containers
(i.e. +100 gallons) may be more difficult to move or handle.
Containers made to FDA specifications for potable water is obviously
important because we want our stored water to be healthy and safe when
we need it. However, just because a container is not made to FDA
standards does not mean it’s not useful for preparedness: water stored
in non-FDA containers such as water beds or swimming pool water can be
used for non-potable water uses such as toilet flushing or bathing. This
leaves the precious stored potable water for drinking and cooking.
Containers specifically NOT recommended for storing water:
Glass containers: too fragile, especially in earthquake , tornado
and hurricane prone areas; glass is heavy, making it harder for people
to move the containers when filling, emptying, etc. Glass containers are
especially hazardous if you are forced to evacuate.
Metal containers: will impart a metallic taste to water and will
eventually make the water undrinkable. Note: I have no experience with
FDA approved lined steel containers designed for storing water. Assuming
the liner remains intact (big assumption IMO), the only objection would
be cost and the fact that metal containers would be heavier than
equivalent sized plastic containers. For example, the 5 gallon metal
jerry water cans sold by Back Country Trailers cost $49 each, plus
shipping i.e. +$10/gallon of water stored!
Milk jugs and other containers made of milk jug type plastic
materials: This material, while approved by the FDA for contact with
food, are made of Low Density Polyethylene (LDPE), which is a very thin
container material and designed to biodegrade; it is guaranteed to leak
after a couple of months, sooner if exposed to light.
Used bleach jugs: Designed to biodegrade plus the added hazard of
using a hazardous material container for potable water; not made of FDA
materials approved for potable water; thin material, will leak within a
couple of months, especially if exposed to light.
Plastic fuel cans: Material not made of FDA approved materials for
potable water; also increases the chance of contamination with petroleum
products. It’s just a bad idea to use any hazardous material container,
new or not, for a water storage container.
Any container that previously contained any hazardous materials,
chemicals, pesticides, petroleum products or food products that will
impart an objectionable taste to water (i.e. pickled eggs, meat
products, condiments etc.)
“Desert Patrol” water containers: Although designed for water storage, I’ve personally had
both
of my units leak. I ended up destroying both of them. Furthermore, I’ve
heard from at least 3 other users that their Desert Patrol containers
also leaked.
“Collapsible” containers: made of LDPE, not robust enough to hold
water permanently and the fact that they are collapsible almost
guarantees they won’t be filled until the crisis occurs, then it will be
too late to discover this container has a pinhole and leaks.
[Article taken from http://www.survivalmonkey.com/pages/water-storage-container-faq/ read more on the website!]
